From Bluegrass to Bell Tolls: Experience the best of Philadelphia, Nashville, and Kentucky
Join USA expert Jeanette Dembrey on a journey through the heart of America’s South and beyond. From Nashville’s vibrant honky-tonks to Kentucky’s rolling horse farms and Philadelphia’s historic streets, Jeanette’s Country Roads & City Rhythms tour brings the past into the present and weaves together celebrated musicians, authentic dining experiences, and movie legends.
- A Musical Interlude in Nashville
- Kentucky: Rolling Hills and Bourbon Trails
- Louisville: Bourbon, Boxing, and the Derby
- Ringside in Philadelphia
A Musical Interlude in Nashville
My journey began at the Virgin Hotel, a chic boutique property nestled in the heart of Nashville’s Music Row. The hotel features a stunning rooftop pool, where you can sip cocktails in a private cabana. It’s the kind of spot where you could lose an afternoon, lulled by the breeze and the city’s distant hum.
Naturally, exploring Nashville’s vibrant music scene is a must. First stop, the Ryman Auditorium. A National Historic Landmark, which still hosts shows today, this was the original home of the Grand Ole Opry from 1943 to 1974. Here I learnt about Lula C. Naff, the formidable woman who transformed the Ryman into the “Carnegie Hall of the South” in what was then a male-dominated world.
Music by country and rock pioneer Emmylou Harris and the Nash Ramblers reignited interest in the Ryman after it fell into disrepair following Lula’s death, and post a multi-dollar renovation, it’s now back to its former glory.
Visiting the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum was another truly nostalgic experience, the building housing a sprawling 350,000 square feet of galleries dedicated to a genre that was very much part of my childhood.
Growing up with the likes of Hank Williams and Dolly Parton, I was eager to dive into the exhibits. From Elvis Presley’s gold-plated Cadillac to Taylor Swift’s education centre, the museum is a treasure trove of artefacts including, stage costumes, rare recordings, and instruments that tell the story of country music’s evolution. Overall it was a humbling experience, and I would have to say it’s a must for anyone visiting Nashville.
A high note, over the course of our stay we also visited the legendary RCA Studio B, where over 1,000 chart-topping hits were recorded, and it didn’t disappoint. As a lifelong Elvis fan, sitting at the piano where he crafted his magic was a very special and emotional moment for me, and it’s a memory I will cherish for a lifetime. We even got to sing a little tune ourselves.
Flavours That Sing To You
It’s not only the museums that celebrate Nashville’s musical roots, as at the Listening Room Café, we were treated to the sounds of a quartet of up-and-coming songwriters. Ryan Larkins, Chris Lane, Adam Hambrick, and Kelley Lovelace, all shared their hits and the stories behind them.
Booking ahead is a must, but you should certainly add it to your itinerary, as you leave with a very personal glimpse into Nashville’s songwriting scene as you come to understand the stories behind the lyrics.
A Nashville original, tasting Prince’s Hot Chicken is practically a rite of passage, so we made time to visit the Assembly Food Hall, a rooftop haven with over 30 eateries. A legendary dish that Nashvillians crave, the recipe, so legend has it, is the result of a lovers’ quarrel.
A more hands-on culinary experience, you should also make time to indulge at the Goo Goo Chocolate Company. It’s a chance to craft your own Goo Goo Cluster bar, one of the most well-known candy bars in all of the Southeast.
Broadway Nights
Without a doubt, no trip to Music City would be complete without a night on Broadway. The honky-tonk strip buzzes with energy, from the legendary Tootsies to the lively Ole Red. Live music spills from every doorway, a mix of up-and-coming artists and seasoned performers. It’s the perfect time to savour a bourbon, tap your foot to a twangy guitar, and soak in the eclectic food scene.
When the Music Stops
While you’re in Music City, take time to wander. Head to Centennial Park, where the full-scale Parthenon brings classical architecture to the heart of Nashville and, only seven miles southwest of downtown, visit the Belle Meade Historic Site & Winery. An original antebellum estate, you will leave with rich insight into the history of bourbon, the barrel-aged American whiskey capturing the quintessential spirit of the South.
Die hard fans of country music won’t want to miss the Johnny Cash Museum, an intimate space celebrating the life and legacy of the Man in Black. For a different perspective, uncover Nashville’s vibrant murals on a street art tour, or spend a morning at the historic Cheekwood Estate, where 55 acres of beautifully curated gardens and world-class art await.
Kentucky: Rolling Hills and Bourbon Trails
Kentucky is a state where thoroughbreds race across emerald fields, bourbon flows like a warm handshake, and legends like Muhammad Ali leave an indelible mark. Both Lexington and Louisville keep one foot in the past and still charge into the modern day, balancing historic roots with mouthwatering dishes and the enduring thrill of horse racing.
We began our visit in Bowling Green, an hour from Nashville. A gearhead’s dream, the National Corvette Museum showcases the evolution of America’s iconic sports car with rare models and guided tours. Just down the road, Mammoth Cave National Park offers a different kind of thrill. It’s a sprawling underground labyrinth—the world’s longest cave system—paired with trails for hiking or canoeing. A perfect stop for the adventurous.
Lexington, the heart of Bluegrass Country, greeted me with rolling hills and horse farms, all of which have come to define Kentucky. Founded by Alice Chandler in 1962, at Mill Ridge Farm, I got up close with thoroughbreds, learning why this land breeds champions. The tour wound through breeding sheds and pastures, with foals nearby and a stallion stealing the show.
Chasing Kentucky’s Legacy: Bourbon Trails
Of course, for a true taste of Kentucky you have to visit the Jim Beam Distillery, where tours allow you to trace the Beam legacy back to the 1700s. And then there’s the restaurant. The Beam family named it after the most important place in the family home, the kitchen table. Another delightful experience, our lunch was a mix of bold dishes with bourbon cocktails that hit just right.
As the uniquely Southern drink of bourbon has been produced in Kentucky for centuries, there is a long list of established distilleries still in operation, but on a tour of Bespoken Spirits you’ll notice that newcomers are really shaking things up. Their modern approach uses less wood and water for a sustainable sip that doesn’t skimp on taste. However if you’re still not convinced and you prefer your craft beers, follow Lexington’s “Brewgrass Trail”, which includes about 25 of the finest craft breweries in Lexington.
Indulging in Lexington’s Culinary Spirit
Set in a former bottling works, Epping’s on Eastside delivers Bluegrass pride with house-cured meats and local flavours. For a deeper dive, the Bites of the Bluegrass food tour, led by the spirited Erin Goins, weaves Lexington’s history with stops at top eateries. I can promise, you won’t leave hungry, and you’ll have a new appreciation for the city after your dining experience.
Louisville: Bourbon, Boxing, and the Derby
A 90-minute drive past lush green rolling hills, beautiful mansions, and acres of farmland took us to Louisville. A Kentucky city buzzing with bourbon, boxing, and Derby fever, this metropolis has swagger. Known as “Bourbon City,” it’s the kind of place where Southern tradition and modern cool collide. Think historic racetracks, heavyweight champions, and a food scene that punches well above its weight.
Urban Immersion: Sensory Overload in Louisville
We began our urban adventure with lunch at Doc Crow’s Southern Smokehouse & Raw Bar—a mouthful of a name, and that’s exactly what you get. We devoured smoky barbeque classics, fresh seafood, and Southern fried chicken, leaving us satiated and ready for an afternoon of exploring the nearby distilleries and galleries.
The Evan Williams Bourbon Experience was yet another dive into Kentucky’s distilling past, but it is surprisingly immersive in a different way. It wasn’t all copper stills and tasting notes, as we found ourselves time-travelling through 18th-century riverfronts and the storied evolution of Whisky Row. It felt more like a stage production with a “Brown Water” kick.
Back on Main Street, we paused at a powerful mural of Muhammad Ali—facing the centre that bears his name. Inside, the exhibits stretch far beyond boxing gloves and title belts. This is Ali, the activist, the poet, and the principled man who rattled the world. It’s a moving tribute to a boxer and a humanitarian who still inspires to this day. More light-hearted, the Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory gave us a behind-the-scenes tour of how baseball’s most iconic bat is made, and we left with a mini bat as a keepsake.
Artful Stays and Equestrian Traditions
Our base in Louisville was the 21c Museum Hotel, positioned right on historic Main Street. Not merely a place to sleep—it’s a living, breathing art space—the world’s first museum hotel, home to one of Louisville’s most iconic dining institutions, Proof on Main.
Another great place to chow down on food and Kentucky culture, lying just outside of town, is Barn 8 at Hermitage Farm, the restaurant offering a modern take on farm-to-table dining. Before sitting down to eat, we wandered through the grounds, past stables and outbuildings steeped in the state’s equestrian history. A former horse barn, most of what lands on the plate is grown just outside the door or raised across the road at the bison farm.
No trip to Louisville would be complete without a visit to the famous Churchill Downs, the Kentucky Derby Museum, an American Thoroughbred horse racing museum, located in its grounds. We started off with a Breakfast and Barn Backside tour. This is an introduction to a private world, where over a thousand horses and the people who train, groom, and live alongside them get ready for racing and training season.
Inside the museum, the story of the race unfolds from its first lap in 1875 to today’s world-famous spectacle. It’s not just nostalgia, they’ve done a fabulous job of pulling you into the moment, whether you’re a lifelong fan or don’t know a furlong from a finish line.
Caught somewhere between whimsy and tradition, we found ourselves designing our own Derby hats, after which, we stepped into the Turf Club, our creations in place. With the races getting underway, we placed our bets and then went out into the stands to watch the horses thunder over what is hallowed ground.
Before leaving Louisville, I took the chance to stretch my legs along South Fourth Street. Once Louisville’s main drag for shopping and entertainment, it still carries that same energy. Historic facades mix with modern day flair, and a handful of the bars and restaurants feel like they’ve always been there.
Ringside in Philadelphia
Philadelphia unique rhythm mixes history with art, food, and a little Hollywood stardust. Almost as soon as we arrived at the PHS Pop Up Garden on South Street, the city threw a curveball: a Sylvester Stallone lookalike joining us, his demeanor all Rocky bravado and squinting charm. As we were sipping our cocktails, I half-expected him to toss me a sweatband and demand a sprint up the art museum steps. Philly’s vibe—gritty, warm, and unfiltered.
Equally fascinating, when you wander into the Old City District, the past meets you head-on, each step pulling you deeper into America’s roots. Independence Hall stands as the heavyweight champ, its walls holding the echoes of 1776, when the Declaration of Independence was signed. Fun fact: the Syng inkstand used by the Founding Fathers still sits in the room, as if frozen in time.
Just across the way, the Liberty Bell gleams with its famous crack, a failed repair attempt leading to the bell being permanently silenced. It hasn’t rung since George Washington’s birthday in 1846.
Fifteen minutes away on foot, Elfreth’s Alley, the nation’s oldest residential street (dating back to 1703), charms with its cobblestones and colourful row houses. Their shutters hide centuries of stories, and a tiny tucked-away museum offers a glimpse into colonial life, from the tradesmen who built it to the families who called it home.
Another short walk away, the Museum of the American Revolution picks up the thread with its immersive exhibits and artefacts, a soldier’s tattered uniform or a cannonball from Valley Forge bringing the struggle for independence into the here and now.
Philly’s Art and Culinary Knockouts
A veritable feast for urban trekkers who feel the urge to explore on foot (note: if you’d rather cycle, the Element Philadelphia Hotel runs a complimentary bikes-to-borrow program), Amada Philadelphia delivers a satiating slice of Andalusia in every bite. The rustic restaurant’s Spanish tapas—think sizzling gambas al ajillo and creamy croquetas—burst with flavour, proving Philly’s food scene can easily go toe-to-toe with its history.
That same passion carries through from food to art, as just a short ride away lies the Barnes Foundation. Not your run-of-the-mill museum, this is a project born of obsession. Its galleries are packed with more than 3,000 post-impressionist and early modern masterpieces. Dr. Albert Barnes’ curation style places Renoirs cheek-by-jowl with Cézannes and Picassos, the collection so dense it is said to hold more Impressionist works than most museums in Paris.
At the Franklin Institute, wonder took a different form. This science museum has been sparking curiosity since 1824, when it wowed early visitors with electric experiments. Today, it’s still one of America’s leading science centres; soaring halls, interactive exhibits, and a giant walk-through heart included. The location for our gala dinner, we enjoyed the perfect end to a day steeped in everything Philly.
Iconic Landmarks and Philly’s Underdog Spirit
An unmissable landmark, the LOVE Sculpture is a modern-day magnet for cameras and a symbol of the city’s open-hearted spirit. The artist Robert Indiana’s iconic design has spawned over 50 versions globally, but Philadelphia’s feels like the original, a distinctive icon for the City of Brotherly Love. A world away in tone, but equally unforgettable, the crumbling walls of Eastern State Penitentiary tell a darker story.
Once home to notorious figures like Al Capone—whose tastefully decorated cell raised more than a few eyebrows—the prison is now a haunting, thoughtfully preserved site. The “Voices of Eastern State” audio tour, narrated by Steve Buscemi, mixes inmate stories with moments of dark humour (including the story of Pep the dog, convicted for “murdering” the governor’s cat).
If your feet still have fuel, the Philadelphia Museum of Art is worth every step. Its 200 galleries span everything from mediaeval armour to modern masterpieces, including Duchamp’s Nude Descending a Staircase—a painting so provocative in 1913 it nearly caused a riot.
The famous Rocky Steps lie right outside. I charged up all 72 and struck my pose at the top, fists raised, Philly tough. The Rocky statue stands below, crafted for Rocky III and now a permanent symbol of the city’s underdog spirit.
From Iconic Cheesesteaks to Cultural Beats
In true Philly style, a cheesesteak eatery made it onto my bucket list. Jim’s Steaks on South Street, a five-time “Best of Philly” winner, serves up an authentic slice of the city. The place buzzes with energy, the air thick with the scent of grilled onions and melted cheese. There’s a fierce debate over who makes the best cheesesteak in town, but this one—crusty roll, chopped steak, gooey provolone—was gloriously messy and completely satisfying. Proof that simple, done right, can be extraordinary.
The perfect note to end on, we wrapped things up with a visit to the Kimmel Centre for the Performing Arts, its glass-domed roof gleaming like a crown. Home to the Philadelphia Orchestra and countless Broadway shows, it’s a reminder that this city’s creative pulse beats as strong as its historic one.
Notes, Echoes, and the Road Home
Jeanette’s journey reminds us that travel is more than ticking off landmarks. Travel is about connection, something that’s easy to forget, in the rush to see all the sites.
From Nashville to Philadelphia, every city on invites you to slow down and discover in a way that goes well beyond the guidebooks.
For more information on our tailor-made holidays and assistance in planning your trip from the Frontier America team, call our specialists on 020 8776 8709 or email us at America@frontier-travel.co.uk. ATOL PROTECTED No 5405 ABTA W3207.
